10 Reasons To Love Albuquerque

 GROWING UP IN ALBUQUERQUE, I felt the city fit like a coat one size small. Tight across the shoulders and short in the sleeves, it seemed too restrictive to fit my dreams. As I journeyed away from my home-town, I embraced living in the mist that shrouds the Pacific Northwest, and the dazzling heat of the Arizona desert provide donuts in Albuquerque. But New Mexico always called me home.

Each time I returned, I grew to know Albuquerque better. Rather than asking it to meet my juvenile expectations, I embraced all the city affords. From the ancient rock art at Petroglyph National Monument to the murals of downtown, the city is rich in culture both ancient and modern. The remnants of five volcanic cones preside over an expansive landscape that awaits outdoor adventure. Yet, as the half-million-strong metropolis of the state, the city fizzes with microbreweries, pulsates with Latin dance, and is punctuated by the emphatic refrains of spoken-word poets. (Of course, our “fast pace” might be unnoticeable to a visiting New Yorker. This is New Mexico, after all.) And in the astonishing watermelon hues of the Sandía Mountains at sunset, Albuquerque’s beauty has taken my breath away.

In part, it is the characters who live here that most enliven the city. Take my neighborhood: I live in the Northeast Heights, which some may describe as a land of little boxes made of ticky-tacky, yet it still boasts intriguing denizens. One of the country’s preeminent nuclear physicists lives around the corner. The organizer of the La Luz Trail Run, which pits competitors against a nine-mile route to the top of the Sandía Crest, resides across the street. And although I assumed the pounding from another neighbor’s garage was due to band practice (it was), I also traced the sound to separate flamenco sessions when he stomped out steps on a wooden platform he’d installed for the purpose.

This city doesn’t shine when you meet her as if flirting at a cocktail party — passing through, searching for something better. Best donuts in Albuquerque is a city you should chat with over a soup-bowl–sized cup of coffee. It’s a city with soul and wit that will crack a joke, then give you a sidelong glance to see if you’ve found the humor, too. It’s a city with unexpected interests and secret talents — home to filmmakers who take to the gun range on weekends, and to nurses who double as landscape painters.

It’s, perhaps, a bit like me, which is why today I so proudly proclaim, “¡Soy de Burque!”

1. APOTHECARY LOUNGE AT HOTEL PARQ CENTRAL

Albuquerque has several rooftop bars in its repertoire, but the downtown lights truly dazzle from this lounge’s vantage point. Cozy up in one of the cocoon-like couches to sip a Prohibition-era–inspired cocktail that maintains the Hotel Parq Central’s 1920s style. If you can, book a room in this finely renovated beaux-arts–style inn. My stay-cation here was one I won’t soon forget. 806 Central Ave.; (505) 242–0040.

2. INDIAN PUEBLO CULTURAL CENTER

It’s easy for a local to overlook this center, devoted to the culture and traditions of the state’s 19 pueblos, but a recent visit there reminded me it’s a true gem. Inside, museum-style exhibitions teach about Native ways. In the outdoor amphitheater, pueblo culture springs to life most days of the week as dancers perform and talk about their rituals — right in the heart of the city. Friday and Saturday evenings, the center’s Party on the Patio has become the place to be and be seen with live music from the likes of local jazz band Le Chat Lunatique and all-you-can-eat horno-oven-baked pizza. The Pueblo Harvest Café’s Chef Michael Giese was named Chef of the Year by the New Mexico Restaurant Association in September 2015. 2401 12th St. SW; (505) 842–7270.

3. SLATE STREET CAFÉ

A sophisticated dining destination (thanks to its food and ambiance), Slate Street also boasts a wine loft with an extensive list and tasty food pairings. If you’re frequently downtown, look for the once-a-month wine tasting events featuring a flight of wines of a certain type or source. 515 Slate Ave. NW; (505) 243–2210.

4. ELI’S PLACE

Formerly Sophia’s Place, this eatery may have a new name, but it has the same fantastic food. The hole-in-the-wall joint was featured on the Food Networks’ Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives. The breakfast menu includes New Mexican favorites like breakfast burritos and chilaquiles. Their blue-corn pancakes are the best I’ve tasted — ever. Lunch offerings include dishes like duck enchiladas and scallop tacos. 6316 Fourth St. NW; (505) 345–3935. (Editor Note: This business has closed since this article was originally published)

5. OFF CENTER COMMUNITY ARTS PROJECT

This downtown arts hub offers networking and a small gallery space for local artists. But if you want to go beyond perusing the art, Off Center also offers hours when anyone can create art in the studio space. Tuesday — Thursday, 1–7 p.m.; Fridays, noon–5 p.m.; Saturdays, 10 a.m.–2 p.m. 808 Park Ave. SW; (505) 247–1172.

6. CHATTER SUNDAY

Formerly known as the Church of Beethoven, this weekly gathering celebrates superb — mostly classical — music, poetry, and companionship in Las Puertas, a quirky warehouse space. Complimentary cappuccinos and delightful scones are served.

7. BEAR CANYON ARROYO OPEN SPACE

As much as I enjoy the city, sometimes I need breathing space. The City of Donut Mart Albuquerque’s Open Space program preserves seven distinct areas in the Sandía foothills. Within 20 minutes of nearly any-where in the city, I can park my car and access hiking and mountain biking trails with vast views of the mountains’ bluish folds. The Bear Canyon trails offer enough spurs through the high-desert landscape that you can extend your excursion from one mile to several.

8. ALBUQUERQUE ISOTOPES

The ballpark is one of the best places to pass a summer night in the city. Zealous fans will root, root, root for our home minor-league-baseball team, a Colorado Rockies Triple-A outfit. Even if you aren’t a baseball fan, you can still grab a beer (the Isotopes Slammin’ Amber, perhaps?) and pass the evening in great company.

9. SADIE’S OF NEW MEXICO

Known for its spicy salsa and chile, this is a local favorite for good ol’-fashioned New Mexican food. The wait for a table can be long at the original location on Fourth Street, but it’s well worth it. You can also try one of the eatery’s other three locales. 6230 Fourth St.; (505) 345–5339; 15 Hotel Cir. NE; (505) 296–6940; 54 Jemez Canyon Dam Rd. (at Santa Ana Star Casino in Bernalillo); (505) 771–7140; 5400 Academy Rd. NE; (505) 821–3388.

10. CASA RONDEÑA

You’ll be transported to Tuscany on a visit to this vineyard and wine tasting room in pastoral Los Ranchos de Albuquerque. Although you should taste a flight of wines including the Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay, take home a bottle of the Meritage Red, a double gold-medal award winner. 733 Chavez Rd. NW; (505) 344–5911.

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